Berluti shoe leathers turned into tailoring for Spring/ Summer 2020. The famous patina is everywhere

 

 

Berluti Spring/ Summer 2020 expands on the adventurous wardrobe.

Presented in front of the Orangerie of the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris, the Berluti Men’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection expanded on the adventurous wardrobe proposed for the previous season, amplifying its details.

Berluti Spring/ Summer 2020 collection underscores the continuity between Kris Van Assche’s contemporary spirit and Berluti’s heritage.

“Berluti is a curious brand because, in terms of clothing, it has almost no heritage: its story is found in shoes rather than ready-to-wear. That blank canvas appears to fascinate Van Assche who, alongside presenting the “fashion forward” and womenswear looks, is also reimagining its past,” commented Vogue UK’ Olivia Singer.

Informed by the stained surfaces of the marble tables on which Berluti artisans in the Manufacture de Ferrare hand-dyed patina shoes, Artistic Director Kris Van Assche added bright neon and fluorescent hues to his palette.

The patina suit, transmuted from the classic Alessandro shoe, is embossed with the Maison’s heritage scritto motif, which reappears on jacquard shirts and suits, printed on sportswear, as well as on bags and in the details of linings and zips. With an unrestrained attitude towards dress codes, silhouettes expand in pants, Bermuda shorts and sleeveless jackets with epaulettes.

Kris Van Assche also explores new iterations of sportswear with takes on perforation in woven leather tops.

“Berluti is supposed to be LVMH’s solely all-menswear marque, but Kris Van Assche is not down with the same-sex, boarding school vibe,” commented vogue.com

“Van Assche again mixed tailoring with moto-inspired pieces to evoke the complementary interplay of heritage values and fashion-forwardness he is working to achieve. This was also exemplified in the orange-accent-soled Alessandro shoes and the orange piping on this season’s bag offer.”