Born Again: Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022/23 – a millinery moment for every occasion

“All of us who work in fashion know that much of the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly. It’s a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It’s also provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful. It’s breathtaking. It’s beautiful.” – Schiaparelli Creative Director Daniel Roseberry

Elsa Schiaparelli was never without gloves, never without unpredictable bijoux, and never without a twist on the head, or rather, a hat.

Whether it was a day hat or an evening hat, there was a millinery moment for every occasion. Elsa was ahead of her time with her boundary-breaking perspective of dress codes, and like the dot of the letter “i”, she viewed the hat as the end point of every silhouette, as well as an opportunity to unleash her unmistakable visionary flair.

A prime example of one of the first hats is one that Elsa Schiaparelli put on herself: a wig. Antoine de Paris created fabulous evening wigs for Elsa, a sight that was immortalized in photographs by Man Ray. While the models donned these wigs pour le sport, Elsa showed up on the slopes of St. Moritz wearing a blazing red wig.

In the Schiap world, the hat was not only an accessory but a key part of the ensemble.

Her headgear creations still reign supreme. There was, of course, the iconic Mad Cap. This simple knit hat that clung to the head was worn by Katharine Hepburn and became so successful and so copied that Elsa almost regretted creating it. The knit alternates included iterations with newspaper print that was inspired by the wives of fisherman of northern Europe.

Other iconic Schiaparelli hats included the “Lamb Chop”, the “Shell of the Roy Soleil”, and the “Gondolier”. The variety was boundless, and Elsa created hats for everything from the beach to hats for sports. Of course, there was the “Shoe” hat that was designed to surreally look like an upside-down heel, which was made in collaboration with Salvador Dalí.

Schiaparelli did not only surprise people with the innovative hat silhouettes but also expressed her artistic sensibility by titling the hats with names like “Love and Marriage”, “Happy Woman”, “Cocktail Hat”, “Baldachin”, and “Wings of Bees”.

Creative Director Daniel Roseberry celebrated Elsa’s outré take on the chapeau with milliner Stephen Jones for Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022/23 with hats embellished with plumage, flowers, and trompe l’œil lavender.

“I always talk about trying to achieve that state of creative innocence—of fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world-weariness. I hope that spirit comes through in this collection: I hope people who see it can tell what fun the team and I had making it. I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory.” – Schiaparelli Creative Director Daniel Roseberry

“I think we sometimes get defensive when our critics accuse us of just wanting to make beautiful things. But what’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? It’s not the only important part of life, of course, but it is a part of life. And to make truly beautiful things isn’t actually that easy. But it is a privilege—and I’m grateful for it every day.”

LOOK 8 from Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022/23

A Cocteau inspired lace-up jacket in black velvet with sharp shoulders has a neckline that shows a trompe l’oeil face profile. The piece is worn with a lace-up skirt in black velvet. A pair of hammered gold-plated brass twisted link earrings. Hat and muff in trompe l’oeil feather wheat embroidery.

LOOK 5 from Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022/23

A bustier in white leather is molded into a naked torso. The piece is worn with a draped low-cut skirt in black velvet with pompoms on the bottom. White lace panties. Sunhat in thick straw.

LOOK 16 from Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022/23

A top completely made from strands of pale topaz beads is fastened together by a black velvet ribbon necklace. The piece is worn with a low-waist draped trouser in black wool-silk canvas.

Round gilded brass earrings with bead adornments. Braided white boater hat.

The Soga Suede Hat: Figue and Tuluminati Release Limited Edition Hat Collection

Figue and Tuluminati announced this month a limited-edition capsule collection of iconic hats. The collection features a series of unique hats embodying the adventurous spirit of Figue with the unique styling and craftsmanship of Tuluminati.

CEO and Creative Director Liz Lange said “when I had the chance to collaborate with Tuluminati, I immediately jumped on it. Tuluminati’s style, quality, and brand are a perfect complement to Figue, and I couldn’t be more excited by our collection.”

The collection features three hats, the Katuk Palm Hat — handcrafted from 100% fine palm leaf, the Katuk is adorned with a braided cotton band interlaced with jute fabric and a handstitched logo of the Figue Serpents. The Puka Suede Hat blends shells and suede for a fiercely independent style. Hand-selected Cowrie shells stitched across a jute fabric band accentuate a subtle, 100% suede construction. Embossed with the Figue Serpents on the crown, the Puka Suede Hat comes together to create the perfect accessory for poolside parties or Pacific panoramas.

The Soga Suede Hat makes an unforgettable statement. Crafted from 100% white suede, and embossed with the Figue Serpents, the Soga is a hat dedicated to detail. Embellished in an array of avian accessories, the Soga Suede Hat tucks white peacock, ostrich, goose, and silver pheasant feathers behind a cotton rope band adorned with a golden safety pin. With a luxurious look and legendary style, the Soga Suede Hat is a symbol of timeless taste.