Perfume is more than just an accessory—it’s an identity, an emotion, and, at its best, a form of wearable art. This season’s latest luxury releases from heritage houses and niche perfumers push the boundaries of olfactory craftsmanship, balancing tradition with modernity. But do they all succeed? Let’s dive into this curated selection, where innovation meets indulgence.
Prada Infusion de Rhubarbe: A Playful Disruption or a Safe Bet?
Prada’s Infusion de Rhubarbe is a charmingly unexpected twist on the brand’s signature refined aesthetic. The tartness of rhubarb meets the softness of white musks, creating a fragrance that feels both crisp and delicate. Yet, despite its sophisticated layering, one can’t help but wonder—does it lean too much into the mainstream fruity-floral trend? While undeniably pleasant, it plays it safe in a category that begs for bold reinvention.
photo: @Prada Infusion de Rhubarbe Eau de Parfum
Creed Fragaria: A Flirtation with Fruity Sensuality
Creed, synonymous with stately refinement, takes a surprising turn with Fragaria, a Selfridges-exclusive scent centered around ripe strawberries. While it offers a tantalizing contrast between sun-kissed fruit and grounding woods, the composition feels somewhat predictable. The challenge with fruit-forward perfumes is avoiding the saccharine; while Fragaria flirts with depth, it doesn’t quite seduce in the way one expects from the house of Creed.
photo : @AERIN Rose Cocoa
AERIN Rose Cocoa: Decadence in a Bottle
Rose and chocolate—a pairing that feels both luxurious and intimate. AERIN’s Rose Cocoa is an olfactory dessert that strikes a delicate balance between gourmand and floral, with champagne truffle at its heart. It’s a deeply romantic scent, but one must ask: is it too much of a confection? The richness may prove overwhelming for some, but for those who revel in indulgence, it’s an addictive pleasure.
Diptyque Orphéon: Parisian Nostalgia Reimagined
Diptyque’s Orphéon isn’t just a perfume; it’s a time capsule. Inspired by 1960s Paris and the legendary jazz club of the same name, this scent captures the spirit of artistic revelry. The packaging—an oak wood case with panoramic carvings—is an exquisite touch, reinforcing the brand’s dedication to storytelling. But does the fragrance itself live up to the narrative? The answer is a resounding yes—woody, floral, and slightly smoky, it evokes the lingering presence of fine spirits and whispered conversations.
photo: @Diptyque Orphéon set
Jo Malone Beach Blossom: A Tropical Daydream
Jo Malone excels in effortless, transportive scents, and Beach Blossom is no exception. With its blend of coconut water, lime, and tonka bean, it’s an instant getaway in a bottle. However, while undeniably pleasant, it doesn’t push boundaries. Jo Malone has mastered simplicity, but one wonders if the brand could take more risks in creating a beach-inspired scent with unexpected depth.
photo : @SISLEY Eau du Soir Eau de Parfum
Sisley Eau du Soir: A Classic Reimagined
Sisley’s Eau du Soir has long been a staple in the floral-chypre category, and this limited edition is elevated by artist Luke Edward Hall’s exquisite packaging. The scent, evoking Seville’s lush gardens, remains as refined as ever. But is a new bottle enough to captivate longtime fragrance lovers? Perhaps, though one can’t help but wish for an updated twist on the formula itself.
Acqua di Parma Buongiorno: A Morning Symphony
With Buongiorno, Acqua di Parma captures the essence of a Tuscan sunrise. The sparkling citrus opening is fresh and invigorating, but it’s the herbal interplay of basil and petitgrain that gives it distinction. While undeniably well-composed, the question remains: does it justify its exclusivity and price tag? For those seeking a refined everyday scent, the answer may be yes—but for true connoisseurs, it may not break new ground.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Rosa Verde: A Fresh Take on a Classic Bloom
Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line is a love letter to nature, and Rosa Verde continues that tradition beautifully. The inclusion of cucumber adds an unexpected freshness to the classic rose structure. But does it stand out in an already crowded rose fragrance market? Perhaps not dramatically, but it remains a graceful, lighthearted addition to Guerlain’s portfolio.
Estée Lauder x Ladurée Beautiful: A Gilded Confection
Two iconic houses—one of fragrance, one of patisserie—come together for a perfume gift set that feels decadent in every sense. But is Beautiful truly enhanced by Ladurée’s touch, or is this simply a clever marketing tie-in? The fragrance remains a timeless floral, though one could argue that the collaboration might have been more compelling had it infused a gourmand twist inspired by Ladurée’s famed macarons.
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Cérémonie de l’Encens: A Sacred Ritual
Incense fragrances are often divisive, but La Cérémonie de l’Encens leans into its mystical roots with grace. The blend of olibanum, cedarwood, and pepper is rich and meditative, an ode to sacred ceremonies. While not for the faint of heart, it’s a masterpiece for those who appreciate dark, resinous scents with a contemplative air.
Byredo Blanche Absolu: When Purity Meets Power
Byredo’s Blanche has long been a cult favorite, and Blanche Absolu intensifies its clean, airy essence. The addition of heightened aldehydes and black pepper injects contrast, making it both comforting and striking. It’s a subtle yet powerful statement—proof that minimalism, when done right, can be just as impactful as the boldest of compositions.
The Merchant of Venice Mandarin Carnival: A Sicilian Reverie
Mandarin Carnival transports the wearer straight to Sicily, encapsulating its vibrant citrus groves and artisanal heritage. The Murano glass-inspired bottle is a work of art in itself, but does the juice live up to the presentation? With its medley of citrus, musk, and fruit, it certainly charms, though it may lean slightly into familiar Mediterranean territory.
Final Thoughts: The Future of Luxury Perfumery
As these latest launches demonstrate, luxury fragrance houses continue to straddle the line between heritage and innovation. Some, like La Cérémonie de l’Encens and Orphéon, push the boundaries of storytelling and craftsmanship. Others, such as Fragaria and Beach Blossom, play it safe within well-loved scent families. The true magic of perfumery lies in its ability to surprise, to transport, and to evoke emotion. In this ever-evolving landscape, the question remains—who will dare to create the next olfactory revolution?
