Ferdinand Berthoud Oeuvre d’Or – a new artistic interpretation of the Chronomètre FB 1

 

SIHH 2019: Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled the “Oeuvre d’Or” collection, a new artistic interpretation of its original creation, the Chronomètre FB 1.

This model previously existed in two gold versions: white gold with titanium lugs (FB 1.1) and rose gold with black ceramic lugs (FB 1.2). The 2019 collection now welcomes two additional variations, reprising the precious metals of their predecessors, white gold (FB 1.1-2) and rose gold (FB 1.2-1) respectively, while adorning them with original decorations.

These new entirely hand-crafted decorations are lavished on both the dial and its engravings, as well as the movement half- bridges, entirely crafted in 18-carat gold. The white gold version is also the very first gemset creation from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

These two new editions are issued in exclusive five-piece limited editions.

They are directly inspired by a model created by Ferdinand Berthoud,astronomical pocket watch No. 3, assembled and adjusted in Paris in 1806 by his student, Jean Martin. It is now part of the L.U.CEUM collection in Fleurier, the municipality in the district of Val-de-Travers in the canton of Neuchâtel in Switzerland.

These two new five-piece limited editions entirely reproduce the original movement of the Chronométrie FB 1, while adding totally exclusive decorations. The first limited edition, named FB 1.1-2, features several new finishes.

Hand-Engraved Patinated Gold Dial

The first appears on the dial side: the Chronomètre FB 1.1-2 harmoniously combines an 18-carat white gold case with an 18-carat yellow gold dial. The distinctive design of the watch face offers a broad surface on which to express an exclusive finish: ahand-crafted patina. This patina is created using a combination of engraving techniques that require great manual dexterity.

First of all, the gold is finely grained with a graver. The surface is then crafted at length using a tool called a “rocker”, enabling the light to glide across the dial to the rhythm of the shimmering reflections of the moiré effect thus created. A symbol of the passing of time and of Ferdinand Berthoud’s legacy, this combination of artistic techniques recalls the natural patina of the dial of the astronomical pocket watch No. 3 that inspired the Chronomètre FB1.

Each of the five dials in this limited edition is hand-engraved and then subtly coloured to perfect the overall legibility. The FB 1.1-2 model, like Ferdinand Berthoud’s original creations, is adorned with manual engravings that make it unique: “Ferdinand Berthoud – Chronomètre – Val-de-Travers – Suisse”, followed by the individual limited-edition number, “N° X/5”. Opposite these engravings are those indicating the power reserve of the movement: “Haut” and “Bas” (High and Low).