How the biggest luxury groups identify promising change-making startups and technologies covering fashion, leather goods, jewelry, eyewear and beauty.
In the rarefied world of luxury, where timeless artistry meets modern innovation, Kering is making waves once again. The luxury giant has unveiled the “Kering Generation Award X Jewelry”, a groundbreaking initiative that combines the allure of fine jewelry with the urgency of sustainability and innovation. Yet, beneath the dazzling facade of innovation, there’s a deeper question: Can initiatives like these truly redefine the luxury landscape, or are they merely a polished veneer?
The Art of Turning Waste into Wonders
With a theme like “Second Chance, First Choice,” this award challenges traditional notions of preciousness, urging participants to see waste not as a byproduct but as a resource. This bold vision echoes the ethos of Boucheron, one of Kering’s marquee brands, which has previously transformed industrial waste into exquisite jewelry using Cofalit®, a vitrified material derived from upcycled waste.
The contest’s ambition is undeniable: bringing together top universities and startups to reimagine the jewelry industry through innovative practices. From crafting sustainable designs to pioneering new materials, the award seeks to redefine what luxury jewelry can be.
But here’s the critical edge—does this truly represent a seismic shift, or is it an incremental step in a world demanding rapid change?
Photo @Kering Group
Innovation Meets Prestige
Kering’s collaboration with academic powerhouses like Poli.Design – Politecnico di Milano and industry stalwarts like CIBJO – The World Jewellery Confederation ensures a platform of credibility and creativity. By inviting global talent to showcase their visionary ideas, the initiative fosters collaboration between emerging designers, startups, and Kering’s iconic jewelry brands like Pomellato, Qeelin, and Boucheron.
The finalists will present their work at JCK 2025, one of the largest jewelry trade events in the world—a high-stakes stage for bold ideas. Yet, while the initiative celebrates fresh perspectives, the luxury sector’s deeply rooted traditions and resistance to disruptive innovation may pose challenges.
The Broader Picture: Kering’s Expanding Footprint
This jewelry award isn’t an isolated endeavor. It builds on Kering’s existing Generation Awards, which have promoted sustainable innovation across fashion, leather goods, and beauty in regions like China, Japan, and now Saudi Arabia. These programs, inspired by Kering’s sustainability mantra, “Crafting Tomorrow’s Luxury,” aim to unearth transformative ideas and technologies.
However, some critics argue that these initiatives, while admirable, risk being tokenistic if they fail to translate into widespread industry adoption. Luxury’s future lies in systemic change—not just showcasing innovation but integrating it into the fabric of every collection, every brand, and every decision.
Photo @Boucheron /Kering Group
The Critical Question
For all its forward-thinking brilliance, the Kering Generation Award X Jewelry raises an important question: Is the industry moving quickly enough to address the environmental and social challenges it faces? Sustainability in luxury often walks a fine line between genuine innovation and marketing rhetoric. Kering’s track record suggests a sincere commitment, but consumers and critics alike are increasingly scrutinizing whether these initiatives lead to measurable impact or remain symbolic gestures.
A Vision for Tomorrow
Kering’s jewelry award is undoubtedly a step in the right direction—a glamorous yet grounded initiative that invites the industry to reimagine its future. But the success of such programs hinges on their ability to inspire not just participants but also the broader luxury ecosystem.
For the discerning luxury audience, the message is clear: the future of jewelry is not just about what sparkles under the spotlight but what shines in its integrity, innovation, and impact. And while Kering is setting the stage, it’s up to the entire industry to rise to the occasion.
The question is not whether luxury can adapt, but how boldly and authentically it will choose to lead.
Several luxury groups have established awards similar to Kering’s Kering Generation Award X Jewelry, aimed at promoting innovation and sustainability within the industry. Here are some notable examples:
1. LVMH Innovation Award
The LVMH Innovation Award, launched in 2017, recognizes promising startups that offer innovative solutions relevant to the luxury sector. The award features multiple categories, including Sustainability & Greentech, and has attracted over 1,300 applicants from around the globe. Each year, finalists are showcased at the VivaTech event in Paris, providing them with a platform to connect with industry leaders and potential investors.
2. Luxury Innovation Awards
Organized by the Luxury Venture Group, the Luxury Innovation Awards celebrate emerging luxury brands and startups that are developing innovative solutions for the luxury market. The awards cover various categories, including Sustainable Luxury and Luxury Fashion and Lifestyle, and are presented during the Luxury Innovation Summit, which gathers industry stakeholders to discuss future trends.
3. Sustainability Innovation Awards
The Sustainability Innovation Awards focus on recognizing outstanding achievements in sustainability across various sectors, including luxury. This award highlights individual and corporate efforts towards environmental excellence, fostering a culture of innovation within the industry.
4. Young Talent Awards
Part of the Luxury Innovation Awards initiative, the Young Talent Awards provide a platform for students to showcase their creative ideas in luxury. This competition encourages young designers to redefine opulence and sustainability, aligning with broader industry goals of innovation and ethical practices.
These awards reflect a growing recognition within the luxury sector of the importance of sustainability and innovation as integral components of brand identity and consumer engagement. By supporting startups and young talents, these initiatives aim to drive meaningful change across fashion, jewelry, leather goods, and beauty industries.
