When Sarah Burton was announced as Givenchy’s Artistic Director in September 2024, the fashion world collectively held its breath. Could the designer who defined an era at Alexander McQueen bring the same magic to Givenchy? Fast forward to Fall/Winter 2025, and Burton has finally unveiled her vision for the iconic house, choosing its historic Avenue George V headquarters as the setting for her much-anticipated debut. The result? A collection that reveres the past while carefully—perhaps too carefully—stepping into the future.
Heritage Meets Modernity
Burton’s Givenchy is an elegant balancing act between tradition and contemporary sensibilities. Drawing from the house’s archives, she unearthed patterns dating back to 1952, weaving them into a collection that feels deeply rooted in Hubert de Givenchy’s legacy.
A restrained yet powerful palette of black, white, and bursts of vibrant yellow set the tone, emphasizing sharp tailoring and sculptural silhouettes. Masculine tailoring is reinterpreted through a feminine lens—structured shoulders meet cinched waists, and deconstructed elements morph into unexpected drapery. At times, Burton’s signature at McQueen surfaces: conical undergarments reminiscent of ‘50s foundations, ballooning sleeves, and dramatically knotted leather scarves add a hint of provocation.
photo: @Givenchy/ @LVMH
The Highlights: A Touch of the Surreal
Amid the precision-cut blazers and hourglass silhouettes, Burton’s most striking moment comes in the form of a surrealist dress crafted entirely from powder compacts. This playful, avant-garde touch recalls her ability to blend conceptual artistry with wearability—an ethos that could push Givenchy into intriguing new territory if allowed to flourish.
Meanwhile, lace—one of Givenchy’s hallmark fabrics—is given a modern twist. Micro-length Chantilly lace dresses elongate the body, walking the line between couture craftsmanship and rebellious sensuality. Accessories lean into extravagance: shoes sculpted as objects of desire, the new Pinch and Facet bags designed for seamless day-to-night transitions, and pearl and crystal embellishments that elevate the body itself into a jewel-like spectacle.
photo: @Givenchy/ @LVMH
The Critics Weigh In: Is It Enough?
The reception to Burton’s debut is a mix of admiration and cautious critique. On one hand, industry insiders appreciate her deep respect for Givenchy’s codes, her impeccable craftsmanship, and her ability to translate heritage into contemporary relevance. There’s no denying that this collection is beautifully executed, thoughtfully curated, and undeniably luxurious.
However, some critics argue that Burton played it safe. Givenchy, especially in the post-Riccardo Tisci era, has struggled with a clear identity, and while Burton’s debut is polished, it doesn’t necessarily shake the foundations of the house. Where is the raw emotion, the daring risk-taking that made her tenure at McQueen so unforgettable?
What’s Next for Givenchy?
Burton’s first collection lays the groundwork for a promising evolution, but the real test will come in future seasons. Will she push the boundaries further, injecting the same fearless innovation that defined her McQueen years? Or will Givenchy’s history prove too weighty, restricting the kind of reinvention that could make the house a force once again?
One thing is certain: Sarah Burton’s Givenchy is sophisticated, elegant, and exquisitely crafted. But whether it will be truly revolutionary remains to be seen.
