Sustainable Gastronomy À la Française: The Restaurant La Marine-Noirmoutier Just Earned Its Third Michelin Star

Eight additional restaurants’ commitments to sustainable gastronomy are recognized with the MICHELIN Green Star in the new 2023 Michelin Guide France.

With 44 additional MICHELIN Star Restaurants, including 37 outside the Paris metropolitan area, the 2023 selection confirms that excellence, creativity and commitment abound in the world of French gastronomy.

In total, the 2023 MICHELIN Guide France restaurant selection includes 630 MICHELIN-Star Restaurants: 29 Three MICHELIN Star restaurants, 75 Two MICHELIN Star restaurants, and 526 One MICHELIN Star restaurants throughout France.

Michelin gastronomic guide unveiled the 2023 restaurant selection of the MICHELIN Guide France. They were revealed at an exceptional ceremony at the Strasbourg Music and Congress Center in Alsace. It was attended by restaurant owners and professionals from more than 500 Michelin-Star Restaurants in France and Europe. The 2023 award-winners include one additional Three MICHELIN Star restaurant, four additional two MICHELIN Star restaurants, 39 additional One MICHELIN Star restaurants, and eight additional MICHELIN Green Star restaurants.

“They are borne up by talents – often young talents – who take initiatives and reveal their potential, and each restaurant fully reflects the terroir in which it is established. The chefs at their helm provide distinctive culinary experiences and foster economic, human and cultural connections,” remarks Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guides.

“Thanks to Alexandre and Céline Couillon and their creation of a gastronomic destination, the definition of a Three MICHELIN Star restaurant is felt more vibrantly now than ever. La Marine ‘is worth the detour’ because it sweeps us away to the island of Noirmoutier and leaves us forever changed. The restaurant team had already been highlighted with the MICHELIN Green Star in recognition of its remarkable eco-responsible commitment, and the restaurant team plays out a resplendent symphony.”

LA MARINE IS AWARDED THREE STARS

Tucked away on the tip of the island of Noirmoutier, in the cove of L’Herbaudière, La Marine asserts itself as one of the very best restaurants in France with three MICHELIN Stars. An authentic exploration of the ocean and edible coastal plants, Chef Alexandre Couillon’s cookery brings a unique culinary approach to the French gastronomic landscape. Streamlined and fully rooted in this terroir, the chef’s creations vary throughout the seasons with the plants gathered along the shore and fresh seafood from Noirmoutier fish market. The tastes are striking and bold, the produce quality is exceptional, and the cooking methods – where braising predominates – are exacting. Among the dishes that impressed the Guide’s inspectors, the “braised artisanally-fished mackerel, beetroot and parsley foam” and the “crispy buckwheat dessert, caramel mousse, candied citrus fruit and sea lettuce sorbet” are among the monuments to modern cuisine. The service is orchestrated by the chef’s spouse, Céline Couillon, who demonstrates precision, forethought and care. These virtues are essential in raising awareness about the pioneering philosophy of this sustainable establishment which has enjoyed a MICHELIN Green Star since 2020.

In total, the MICHELIN Guide recommends 29 Three MICHELIN Star restaurants.

FOUR ADDITIONAL RESTAURANTS HIGHLIGHTED WITH TWO MICHELIN STARS

In Aumont-Aubrac, at the heart of Aubrac, Cyril Attrazic is awarded Two MICHELIN Stars for his eponymous restaurant. As part of the family-run hotel-restaurant founded by the chef’s grandmother, this atypical, authentic establishment – which also holds a MICHELIN Green Star – elevates the essence of the Lozère terroir and territory to the highest gourmet level. The “Aubrac beef in its ecosystem” – beef garnished with four condiments prepared using the plants that form the basis of the animal’s natural diet – is accompanied by the traditional aligot, perfectly illustrating the chef’s sustainable philosophy, creative flair, and generous spirit.

In Busnes, in the Pas-de-Calais, Christophe Dufossé only joined the Château de Beaulieu a year-and-a-half ago, but he is already being honored with Two MICHELIN Stars. At the heart of this charming property, which sprawls within a wooded park, the chef – who defines himself as a “peasant cook” – offers surf-and-turf cuisine in a tribute to the terroirs of the Nord and the produce of the vegetable garden that he continues to develop. Each dish is delicately prepared, revealing remarkable sauce-making skills. The establishment’s commitment to more sustainable gastronomy is also highlighted by a MICHELIN Green Star.

In Saint-Rémy, the cuisine orchestrated by Cédric Burtin for L’Amaryllis focuses on local produce, taking a truly contemporary view of the chef’s native Burgundy. Like each expertly and deliciously revisited Burgundian hors-d’oeuvre, each dish is sincere and respectful of the terroir while keeping pace with the times. Here, too, the sauces, jus and vinaigrettes are perfectly executed, from the great French classics to creations with subtle exotic touches, such as the remarkable cumin-and-voatsiperifery-pepper sauce.

Rounding out the selection is L’Auberge de Montmin in Talloires-Montmin, Haute-Savoie, rising to the highest gastronomical heights. Perched 3,763 feet up on Col de la Forclaz, Chef Florian Favario and his spouse Sandrine welcome guests to a convivial, secluded setting. Local products and garden produce are magnificently handled and garnished with a profusion of herbs and wild plants. Just four years after opening the restaurant, the chef marks this return to his native village with a brilliantly accomplished menu, clearly finding fulfillment in the concoction of fun, high-impact creations, as demonstrated by the “marrow candle” accompanied by a pot-au-feu and a revisited onion soup. This restaurant also makes exemplary efforts in favor of sustainable gastronomy which are honored by a MICHELIN Green Star.

In addition to these four newly recognized establishments, the 2023 MICHELIN Guide France recommends 75 Two MICHELIN Star restaurants.

39 RESTAURANTS ARE NEWLY HIGHLIGHTED WITH ONE MICHELIN STAR

The MICHELIN Guide inspectors probed into the villages and cities of France, from north to south and from east to west, seeking out the very best restaurants. They have freshly added 39 establishments to the 2023 selection, each awarded One MICHELIN Star.

The Ile-de-France is the leader of the French regions with the most newly-recognized restaurants this year, adding seven new Michelin-Star Restaurants to its credit. Among them, many are managed by young up-and-coming heads-of-restaurant: Anona (Paris 17th arrondissement), run by Thibaut Spiwack; Villa9Trois (Montreuil), overseen by the Breton Camille Saint-M’Leux; and the eponymous restaurant of Malory Gabsi (Paris 17th arrondissement). Omar Dhiab (Paris 1st arrondissement) and Terumitsu Saito, of the restaurant Ōrtensia (Paris 16th arrondissement), add a touch of exoticism – respectively Egyptian and Japanese – to the gastronomic landscape of Paris. In the 8th arrondissement, Martino Ruggieri demonstrates noteworthy cookery at his Maison Ruggieri, while Pascal Barbot receives his first MICHELIN Star directly upon the reopening of his restaurant Astrance in the 16th arrondissement.

THE SUSTAINABLE COMMITMENTS OF EIGHT RESTAURANTS NEWLY RECOGNIZED BY A MICHELIN GREEN STAR

For the fourth consecutive year, the MICHELIN Green Star promotes the efforts of inspiring, pioneering restaurants that are fully invested in more sustainable gastronomy.

In 2023, eight additional restaurants join the MICHELIN Green Star selection because they give pride of place to eco-responsibility in their offerings and operations.

While each of these establishments represents a unique approach and initiative, and while each is shaped by its own limitations and scope of action, all share the same exceptional level of ambition.

“At the cutting edge of this movement promoting more sustainable gastronomy, MICHELIN Green Star establishments – including eight which are joining the selection this year – continue to inspire and make an important contribution to the future of dining in France, Europe, and the entire world,” states Gwendal Poullennec.

The newly-honored establishments bring the number of restaurants awarded the MICHELIN Green Star to a total of 90: Le Château de Beaulieu-Christophe Duffosé in Busnes (62); de:ja in Strasbourg (67); Jardin Secret in Cotignac (83); La Bòria in Veryas (07); Le Doyenné in Saint-Vrain (91); Domaine de Primard (28); Ruche in Gambais (78); and Villa Pinewood in Payrin-Augmontel (81).

This year, Michelin Guide France presents two new professional awards for the sommelier and server vocations, recognizes the pastry achievements of seven additional establishments, and encourages youth and transmission with two other special awards.

Gaby Benicio and Cyril Kocher, who are respectively the sommeliers of the MICHELIN-Star Restaurant Äponem – Auberge du Presbytère in Vailhan (34) and the MICHELIN Green Star restaurant Thierry Schwartz – Le Restaurant in Obernai (67), receive the 2023 MICHELIN Sommelier Award. Both self-taught wine specialists – the former a doctor of sociology and a photographer, the latter originally destined to become a cook – share a vision of their profession that is sensitive, enthusiastic, and very committed. For example, Gaby Benicio freely speaks of transcendent moments of grace when tasting a wine, while Cyril Kocher describes himself as a wine tourist whose mission is to connect a producer with a consumer. Passionate guardians of naturally-made wines and unusual yet precise food-and-wine pairs, Gaby Benicio and Cyril Kocher also both build close relationships with the wine-makers. Moreover, they have both reconsidered and updated the way they connect with their clients, steering clear of technical or ritualistic demonstrations to place enjoyment and discovery at the heart of every interaction.

The MICHELIN Service Award is presented to Claire Sonnet of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant of L’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco, and to Frédéric Rouen of the L’Alter-Native restaurant in Béziers (34). Claire Sonnet went into the service and table arts profession after discovering the vocation while pursuing a bachelor’s degree in psychology, and she has become an exemplary professional with a brilliant career. With a taste for human interaction and for sharing her expertise, she has been the director of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant at L’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco for more than four years. She strives daily to make the uniqueness of each client the alpha and the omega of her approach. As for Frédéric Rouen, he came to live in Béziers in the summer of 2021 after a career which took him through great Parisian establishments and palace restaurants. Elegant, pleasant, and communicably serene, Frédéric Rouen stands out for his erudition and his determination to make every moment at the table a unique experience.

Seven new establishments join Passion Dessert.

This special selection, chosen by the MICHELIN Guide inspectors, is supported by Valrhona. It includes a total of 52 establishments that elevate desserts and the confectionery arts to the highest gourmet level. Led by talented pastry chefs who renew the great classics or bring desserts into as-of-yet-unexplored territory, the seven new Passion Dessert establishments are: Flocons de Sel (Aurélie Collomb-Clerc) in Megève; Le Baudelaire (Pierre-Jean Quinonero) in Paris; Le Jules Verne (Germain Decreton) in Paris; Les Explorateurs – Hôtel Pashmina (Sébastien Deléglise) in Val Thorens; Mirazur (Marius Dufay) in Menton; Rouge (François Josse) in Nîmes; and Troisgros – Le Bois sans Feuilles (César Troisgros and Romain Puybarbeau) in Ouches.

The MICHELIN Guide is also committed to acknowledging and encouraging the emergence of young talents through its MICHELIN Young Chef Award. In 2023, this honor is granted to Chef Mallory Gabsi, whose first eponymous restaurant – which just opened in 2022 – is also being highlighted with a first MICHELIN Star this year. At barely 26 years of age, this young, determined Belgian has worked under Yves Mattagne, and he stands for a casual approach to gastronomy with what is already a very distinctive cuisine.

The MICHELIN Mentor Chef Award, presented by Blancpain, goes to Michel Troisgros in recognition of his avant-garde conversion of the Troisgros establishment, with locations from Ouches to Roanne; for passing along his expertise to his sons César and Léo; and for his dedication to fostering a number of talents throughout his career. From Jacques Decoret (Maison Decoret in Vichy) to Félix and Nidta Robert (Arborescence in Croix), from Samuel Victori (Les Agitateurs in Nice) to Philippe Lagraula (La Table Mirasol in Mont-de-Marsan), and from Frédéric Doucet (Frédéric Doucet in Charolles) to Nicolas Coutand (Les Genêts in Brem-sur-Mer), Michel Troisgros has guided, trained and encouraged a myriad of professionals who have become references today on the French gastronomy scene.