Vivienne Westwood’s Corsetry Subversion: From 1987 to Present

What’s underneath? The ‘Vivienne Westwood Corsets’ exhibition explores the house’s subversion of corsetry from 1987 to the present day. The exhibition debuts in Paris from the 17th-30th of April, and in London from the 8th-21st of May 2023.

Vivienne Westwood revolutionized the corset, transforming it from a binding garment into a symbol of female empowerment.

As ever synonymous with the notion of Renaissance – a French term, originally evoking rebirth – Vivienne Westwood was always one to look to the past for inspiration. ‘When you explore the past, you enter the future,’ she once expressed. Her 18th century-inspired corsets were symbolic of this vision and her keen interest in history. Though long regarded as a patriarchal instrument that would deform the female body, the garment would be reimagined by Vivienne – who was among the first to introduce underwear as outerwear. A radical choice that would empower women, as opposed to binding them.

The first incarnation of the Portrait Corset, which appeared in the Autumn-Winter 1987/88 Harris Tweed collection, was a game-changer. It broke the mold of the historical flat corset structure, which had been around since the 18th century, and established Vivienne as the first designer of the 20th century to subvert the traditional structure.

The corset became a signature piece of the Vivienne Westwood fashion brand, with each collection showcasing the designer’s ingenuity in corsetry design. And let’s not forget about Creative Director Andreas Kronthaler’s recent iterations, which have gone on to influence the current collections of the British luxury fashion house.

Vivienne’s approach to corsetry always touched on the theatrical – playing up to our societal fascination with ‘what’s underneath?’ As articulated by Alexander Fury, Vivienne’s revisiting of the garment meant that, ‘A woman wearing a corset today is a symbol of empowerment, of sexual freedom, of control. She’s the one holding the laces, the one constructing her own femininity.’ In uniting historical elements with her singular perception of the zeitgeist, Vivienne’s corsets have become oeuvres in their own rights. They offered a new meaning – at once social and poetic.

So, if you’re looking to embrace your inner corset-loving rebel and take a trip down fashion memory lane, make sure to check out the ‘Vivienne Westwood Corsets’ exhibition. And don’t forget to pick up a limited-edition 3D charm of the original Westwood Portrait corset in gold metal. It’s the perfect accessory for any outfit, whether you’re heading to a gala or just feeling a little extra rebellious. The small range includes a Westwood gold–plated charm on a necklace and bracelet, on either a pearl or gold-plated chain with matching clip earrings.

The Vivienne Westwood Corsets exhibition will be displayed in ivienne Westwood boutiques. It debuts in Paris from the 17th-30th of April, and in London from the 8th-21st of May 2023. Vivienne Westwood’s exclusive jewellery collection for the event is available online and across the Vivienne Westwood boutiques.